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With its powerful Romanesque interior and red-brickwalls that seem to glow when the sun shines, San Simpliciano (17) at piazza San Simpliciano is one of Milan's most beautiful churches and a moving place to hear Mass. Mass is at 8am, 10am and 11:30am.
Located on the Naviglio Grande (the main canal), Il Brellin at vicolo dei Lavandai (18) (00 39 02 5810 1351) functioned for centuries as a laundry house and you can still see the stone basins where women scrubbed clothes clean outside the door. These days, it's a popular brunch spot with a generous self-service buffet. Brunch is served from 12:30pm to 3pm but you may have to queue since no bookings are taken. Expect to pay around €19.50 (£13.70).
Milan has just two parks - the Giardini Pubblici (19) at the top of via Manzoni and Parco Sempione (20) behind the castle. The latter is less charming but worth visiting to see Giorgio De Chirico's recently-restored Metaphysical Baths installation directly behind the Triennale design musueum.
One of Milan's most endearing features is the continued use of old-fashioned trams. Hop on a number 1 which cuts through the centro storico along via Manzoni (21) and across to the castle. Tickets cost €1 (70p) at any news kiosk.
Buy a postcard of San Siro football station at any of the edicole in piazza del Duomo and write it in the tranquil confines of the State University (22) at the end of via Pantano, five minutes' walk south of the Duomo, where you can find a peaceful retreat.