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The battlements of the Castello Sforzesco, Pirelli tower and Torre Branca in Parco Sempione all offer staggering views but none beats the vista from the roof of the Duomo. To the south, Torre Velasca, BBPR's weirdly handsome 1950s office block; to the north, San Siro football stadium and, on a clear day, Monte Rosa and Mont Blanc. Entrance is via a lift on the north side of the cathedral, open 9:30am-5:30pm every day, tickets costing €5 (£3.60).
For the best spaghetti al pomodoro in town, reserve a table at the Armani Cafe ( 00 39 02 7231 8680) via Croce Rossa 2, on the ground floor of Giorgio's vast superstore (12). Lunch is from 12pm - 3pm, should you have to wait, pass the time in the bookshop on the first floor.
The Museum of Milan (13) (00 39 02 7600 6245, www.museidelcentro.mi.it), at via Sant'Andrea 6, open Tue - Sun, 9am to 5:30pm with free entry, occupies a lovely 17th-centruy palazzo and has a fascinating array of pictures charting the development of the city. Or spend an hour admiring extravagant costumes & portraits of Maria Callas at the La Scala Museum (14) (00 39 02 469 1249, www.lascala.milano.it) , corso Magenta 71. Open every day, 9am - 6pm, entrance fee €4 (£3.60).
(Re)discover your inner wild child at Just Cavalli (15) (00 39 02 311 817) at viale Camoens. Roberto Cavalli's fabulously vulgar bar restaurant under Torre Branca, where the vibe is springbok-skin chairs, crazy floral prints and industrial quantities of silicon.
Favoured by a young, upper-crust Milanese crowd, Il Verdi (16) (00 39 02 659 0797), at piazza Mirabello 5, is both elegant and laid-back. Menu winners include a sublime risotto with pears marinated in balsamic vinegar costing about €14 (£10). The restaurant is closed on Sundays.